Steve had been to Singapore a few times before, for work meetings, but Debbie had only ever passed through the airport so we took the opportunity to break the journey on the way home from Indonesia with a weekend in Singapore. Coincidentally it was the Singapore Grand Prix that weekend and we were lucky enough to get tickets. Even better, one of our favourite bands Green Day were doing the post-race concert.
Like several of the race teams, we booked to stay in the JW Marriott, but we were on hotel points, and avoided using any of the JW Marriott-priced facilities. For example, we bought our Gin duty free and Tonic in the local 7-11 store so only visited the hotel bar to ask for ice. We did feel a bit shoddy in the lifts, next to the Louis Vuiton-clad F1 Wives and Girlfriends!
Friday afternoon practice
Our hotel was right next to the track with the outdoor pool, which is built on a terrace, overlooking Turn 7. So we were able to have a swim and watch practice during the day on the Friday and then watch the evening qualifying on the Saturday, with a great view of the skyscrapers in the background. We did comment that this would probably be a better view than we would get from our official grandstand seat for the race.
Saturday evening qualifying
Saturday
Exploring on Saturday was a bit of a challenge because many of the main roads had been converted to the race track so we kept finding our way blocked by high barriers (to stop people watching without tickets!) and diversions.
Our first destination was to walk along the Rochor River to Little India:
Turning back towards the bay we crossed the Singapore River to Clarkes Quay, where the heavens opened and we had to shelter from a torrential downpour! At that point we decided it might be a good idea to head back to the hotel and have a swim while we waited for the weather to improve. It was also an opportunity to watch some of the Grand Prix practice from the pool terrace.
It had stopped raining by early evening so we set out again. This time we were heading for the Gardens by the Bay and the Supertree Observatory. The Supertrees are huge man-made “trees” with a raised walkway running between them. You have to buy tickets for the walkway and some very officious attendants make sure you only get onto the walkway at your allotted time and make sure you keep moving. Despite this we got some great photos of the trees and the Singapore skyline.
Next Steve was wanting to go up to the observation deck at the top of the Marina Bay Sands hotel. The hotel is a Singapore landmark, with three residential towers bridged by the boat-shaped observation deck at the 56th floor. This has a huge infinity pool and bar. Unfortunately, when we got to the hotel atrium and tried to buy tickets, half of it was closed for a private function and the other half had sold out.
Instead Steve suggested going to the Raffles Hotel for a Singapore Sling in the famous Long Bar. Debbie wasn’t keen, because she was hot and sweaty and didn’t want to go to a posh bar in an even posher hotel in her dischevelled state – but Steve was uncharacteristically insistent.
We got to Raffles, found our way to the Long Bar and they let us in and took our drinks order. Two Singapore Slings at $39 (£22.75) each! Well, When in Singapore…
They were very nice and Debbie had recovered her good humour and was having fun people watching and throwing peanut shells on the floor when Steve pointed out there was something in her drink… it looked like a ring! Debbie’s reaction was to assume there was a dirty ring on the glass and try to find a waiter to complain to. At those prices the glasses should be spotless! Steve pointed out the ring was in her glass, not on it, and fished out the offending object. The conversation then went like this:
Debbie: What is it? Steve: It’s a ring! Debbie: What kind of ring? Steve: I think its an engagement ring. Debbie: Are you taking the piss? Steve: No, I mean it, will you marry me? Debbie: Are you OK? Are you ill…?
After continuing in this manner several more minutes, Debbie was eventually convinced that Steve wasn’t terminally ill and getting his affairs in order and really did want to make an honest woman of her. Then the whole story came out…
I was originally planning to propose back in June at Glastonbury. I had slipped off to one of the craft stalls when Debbie was otherwise engaged and bought a reasonably priced silver ring – well I wasn’t going to buy an expensive engagement ring until I was sure she would say Yes! I waited for the right moment and around midnight, after we had watched one of the headliners, I suggested we walked up to the Glastonbury sign to look at the view across the site. Debbie’s response was “F*** Off! I’m knackered and just want to go back to the camper van and get some sleep” (To be fair, it turned out we had both caught COVID!). Anyway, that romantic moment passed and the ring stayed in my pocket.
I was sure that there would be another opportunity on a romantic tropical beach in Indonesia, so I took the ring with me and waited my moment … and waited … somehow it always seemed to be too busy, but finally a suitable moment arrived. We had had a lovely dinner on the beach, the sun was setting into the sea, the waves were lapping… I took the ring out of my pocket, took a deep breath … and a load of kids from the local church turned up and started singing happy clappy songs at us!
So that moment passed too. By the time we got to Singapore I figured this was the last chance and that the Observation Deck of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel would be a memorable and spectacular location. But then we found it was closed! So I suggested Raffles Hotel and Debbie refused because she wanted to go there when she was freshly showered so would rather do it tomorrow. In desperation I pointed out that the next day we were going to the Grand Prix and wouldn’t have chance, so she reluctantly agreed.
When we got to the Long Bar I distracted her and dropped the ring into her Singapore Sling while she was looking the other way. The problem was the people at the next table saw me do it and most likely thought I was slipping her a date rape drug! Debbie finished her drink without noticing the ring and there was now nothing left in the glass but ice and the ring. At any moment the waiter was going to take the empty glass away and the ring with it!
Anyway, all’s well that ends well and thankfully she did accept my proposal.
Outside the Long Bar, ring safely delivered (and she doesn’t look too sweaty!)
Sunday
The plan for Sunday was to have a walk around Marina Bay, lunch in a Hawker Centre and then head to the Grand Prix in the late afternoon.
We passed the Singapore Parliament building, and the Penny Black Public House before reaching the bay and spent some time watching a rather relaxed yacht race. We were also able to see the grandstand we would be in later across the water.
Hawker Centres are unique to Singapore and they are essentially food courts without the shopping mall! A large collection of very reasonably priced food stalls where you can get all kinds of local and international cuisines. The one we went to was in the Lau Pa Sat Festival Pavilion.
Soon it was time to make our way to our seats for the Grand Prix. We were in Zone 3 on the Esplanade, facing Marina Bay with the track between us and the water. At this point the track passes in front of the stand and then turns left and goes under it so the cars are travelling relatively slowly.
The festivities started with the drivers being paraded around the track on the back of vintage sports cars. As it started to get dark we thought we had better grab some food and drink before the race and visited one of the concessions under our stand. At that point the heavens opened drenching the track and everyone not lucky enough to be under cover. The rain continued for ages and by the time it had stopped the race was delayed by an hour. In the end it did take place but only 59 of the 61 laps could be completed.
Charles Leclerc (Ferrari) was started in pole position with Sergio Perez (Red Bull) second and Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes) third. Because it was so wet, everyone started on Intermediate tyres and switched to slicks as the track dried out. To be honest, it was hard to follow the race when you only see a tiny segment of the track, it is much easier watching on TV, but the final result was Sergio Perez first, Charles Leclerc second and Carlos Sainz (Ferrari) third – Debbie was pleased that Lewis Hamilton only finished 9th. There is a good account of the race on Wikipedia
The race was followed by an amazing fireworks display and with everything over-running we were concerned that the we would miss the Green Day concert but this is Singapore, there was a tannoy announcement saying that the concert wouldn’t start until the race ended and that public transport would also be running late to get everyone home.
Green Day were great, as always, although the Singaporean crowd were a bit subdued compared to their usual boisterous fans. The Padang Stage, with the Singapore skyline in the background was a fabulous setting – and we even got another fireworks display at the end of the set.
Monday
Until now we had spent our time close to Marina Bay and we wanted to explore a bit further afield. The guide books said the Singpore Botanic Gardens and, in particular, the National Orchid Garden were well worth a visit so we set off to find them. It should have been easy – just catch the Metro to the “Botanic Gardens” stop, but when we got off there we couldn’t find the entrance so had a long walk around the outside before we eventually found our way in.
The gardens were established as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015 and are a park that is free for anyone to wander around, so a real oasis in the heart of the city. Well-kept paths wander between beautiful beds and the specimen plants and trees are all well labelled. There is a bandstand, gazebos, lakes and an area of natural rain forest. Also many interesting sculptures.
There is a small charge to visit the National Orchid Garden ($15 for adult tourists, but only $3 if you are over 60!) and it is a bargain with over 3,000 species and hybrids on display. There are a number of glasshouses with different climates, including a cool house, mist house and Bromeliad collection. These emulate the environment at different elevations, from sea level to 2,000m – a bit chilly compared to the hot and humid conditions outside. The photos don’t really do the orchids justice, they are spectacular.
After this it was time to return to the hotel to pick up our stored bags and then head to the airport. A useful tip at Changi is to pay for lounge access, have a meal, a few drinks and, most importantly, a shower and change of clothes before the thirteen and a half hour flight back to the UK.
Logistics
Outbound:
Scoot SQ 8469 depart: Sam Ratulangi, Manado, Indonesia (MDC) 30/9/22 15:00 GMT+7 arrive: Changi, Singapore (SIN) 30/9/22 20:30 GMT+8
